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Archive for February 10, 2008
Recommended Websites
Understandings
Last time I visited Egypt, I somewhat started this adventure somewhat educated about what to expect, since I have known and befriended Egyptian friends, and even married one, and have delved into various books that detailed the culture in an intimate, and quite frank manner. So I knew, for example, that if one should receive guests, and if the guest should provide the host with a gift, then the gift would not, under any circumstances, be opened in the presense of guests. It would be enjoyed privately, later. I think understanding the indoniscrincies of such a culture, or any culture, is useful, particulary since their are a multitude of misunderstandings and miscommunications that could likely result — and I would rather save myself and others the stress or hard feelings.
Recommended Markets
Review by S. Franklin, of the Chicago Tribune:
“From the synagogue, I stay on Sharia Nabi Daniel (the Street of the Prophet Daniel), and in a few minutes and after a few turns, I am at the Souk Attarine. Once it sold spices and perfumes from distant markets and countries. Nowadays, it is an antique market, and after a few minutes, I consider it one of my favorites in all the Middle East.
I like the adventure of wandering up and down small streets, not knowing what is next. There’s no sense of the suffocation that you get from the giant, old marketplaces. Attarine is not enclosed and it rambles for blocks. The streets are so narrow cars can’t get through many of them. Some stores are crowded beyond imagination. They have been cut in half to create a small second story.
A changed city
“It’s too hard to find good old things,” complains an elderly shopkeeper in the doorway of one of these tiny stores, who doesn’t blink as we chit-chat in Arabic, a language I learned a quarter of a century ago. I find his words hard to believe because his store has an unbelievable selection of fine old ceramics, mirrors and furniture. But I agree with him, and try to keep a stoic uninterested glance so I won’t ruin my bargaining mojo.
Books on Alexandria
Rewiew by S. Franklin of Chicago Tribune
“Miramar” by Naguib Mahfouz.
“City of Saffron” by Edwar al Kharrat.
“The Alexandria Quartet” by Lawrence Durrell. The four novels are “Justine” (1957), “Balthazar” (1958), “Mountolive” (1958) and “Clea” (1960).
“Poems” by C.P. Cavafy, Essential Cavafy, the Essential Poets Series.
“Alexandria: A History and a Guide” (1922) by E.M. Forster.
Place to Escape if Mother-in-Law Becomes Too Demanding
Reviews by S. Franlin of Chicago Tribune:
Helnan Palestine Hotel, Montazah Palace (3-547-3500);http://www.helnan.com/hotels/pal/pal_home.htm , an upscale facility on the grounds of the royal family’s old summer resort. The private beach is a gem. $200 single/$250 double.
Cecil Hotel, a Sofitel hotel, 16 Saad Zaghloul Square (3-487-7173;http://www.sofitel.com/sofitel/fichehotel/gb/sof/1726/fiche_hotel.shtml ), a classy reminder of the city’s history. Ask for a view of the sea if possible — though that will cost more. The Asian restaurant on the rooftop is good, and the view is neat. $200 single/$260 double.
Paradise Metropole Inn, 52 Sharia Saad Zaghloul (3-482-1467;http://www.paradiseinnegypt.com ), another historic monument that reeks of old Alexandria. Built in 1902 and designed by Italian and Greek architects, it is a testament to vanished elegance. It feels like a funky museum. $135 single/$155 double.
Paradise Inn Windsor Palace, 17 el Shohada Street (3-480-8123). In the same area as Cecil Hotel, this well-kept, elaborately decorated hotel was built in 1906. It is a toss-up whether this or the Metropole feels more like a time capsule. $135 single/$155 double.
I Must Eat and Drink Well in Egypt, Damnit!
Review by S. Franklin of Chicago Tribune:
Brazilian Coffee Shop, 44 Sharia Saad Zaghloul, across frSanta Lucia, 40 Safia Zaghloul Street (3-486-0332). An excellent favorite among Alexandria’s Greek community, its seafood is top notch, and so is the setting, a comfy and upscale two-story room with a piano player on most nights.
Grand Cafe, el Kashafa building, Bahari, on the Corniche (3-480-5119). A comfortable restaurant with a large patio where you can smoke a shisha (water pipe) or have a meal or snacks. Also located in this convenient complex is the Tikka Grill, an Indian restaurant, and the Fish Market, both popular.
Delices, 46 Saad Zaghloul (3-486-1432), a well preserved patisserie of endless tempting dishes; open 7 a.m.-11 p.m.om the Tourist Office. Buy a coffee and watch as they roast beans in an old, giant roaster — as it used to be; open 7 a.m.-11 p.m.
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